It has, once again, been embarrassingly long since I updated. But, this time, I have a very good excuse.
My second week in Krakow, I brought my computer with me to class so that I could reference a reading we were to be discussing in seminar that I’d saved on my computer. The cord to my computer charger is pretty short (I didn’t think to bring the extender), so I borrowed my roommate’s. She’s also a mac user. Her computer had been having some issues, so she wasn’t going to be using it. I got to class, turned on my computer, and plugged it in. Upon plugging it in, it promptly shut off. I was bewildered, and spent a while futzing around with it, but alas, Charles (my computer’s name is Charles) wouldn’t come back to life, despite quite a bit of coaxing. That afternoon, I took him to an Apple reseller in Krakow, but they weren’t a service location, and there wasn’t much they could do. We were leaving Krakow in 2 days, so I packed him up and brought him with me to Prague, where I finally located an authorized Mac service center. A very nice man in the service department spent a while looking at him, but the situation was hopeless. Charles’ logicboard had been fried, and the only realistic option was a new computer. What I think happened, but I can’t know for sure, is that Teddi’s charger wasn’t converting the voltage properly, and it overloaded the logicboard. The cost of a new logicboard is about the cost of a new computer, and since my computer isn’t under warranty anymore, there wasn’t a whole lot I could do. Luckily, the very nice man at the Apple store was able to remove my hard drive and put it in an external case for me, and he gave me my extra RAM and my battery (not that it’s worth much, I would have needed to replace it soon anyway, it only holds about an hour’s charge), and I left Charlie at his final resting place in Prague. So. I have been computerless for a few weeks now, and have only been able to check my email sporadically, thus no blog updates. However, my parents sent an old PC laptop we had at home to Berlin with some family friends, and I picked it up from Rolf yesterday. Now, I’m sitting in a Café on Oranienstrasse in Kreuzberg, Berlin, eating some sort of cabbage/carrot/potato soup, drinking a Berliner Pilsener, and catching you all up on my life.
Phew. That was a long back story. Now that that’s out of the way.
We’re on our fourth country, and approaching the mid-way point of the trip. That’s weird to think about, because it sort of feels like we left Bologna yesterday, and it’s also a little terrifying that I’m approaching my last semester of undergrad. But, those issues aside, I’ve been having a really great time.
We spent two weeks in Krakow, and it was a pretty emotionally challenging and enlightening couple of weeks. Like I think I mentioned, I was somewhat intimidated by Poland. Poland’s history with Jews and of anti-Semitism isn’t a particularly good one (to say the least), and my understanding was that there had been very little public acknowledgement of the roles that Poland and the Polish people played in the Holocaust. Plus, it was Rosh Hashanah and I was in a city with 150 Jews, and we had a visit to Auschwitz scheduled. (Originally scheduled for Rosh Hashanah, actually. The program director is well intentioned when it comes to issues of Judaism and Anti-Semitism in the context of the program, but perhaps less informed about contemporary Judaism than is ideal. But, we let her know what was up, and the schedule was adjusted.)
I was, however, pleasantly surprised by Krakow. Teddi (my fellow Mac user is also the only other Jew on the program) and I attended Rosh Hashanah services at the only functioning synagogue in Kazimierz (the Jewish district) out of the 8 that survived the war and communism. It was nice to be around Jews, but Orthodox services aren’t my thing. However, we were invited to Rosh Hashanah dinner with a group of Orthodox men from Brooklyn, and despite all of our political and ideological differences (we had a couple of heated conversations about racism, halakhah, and Reform Judaism), it was a very enjoyable dinner. There is something so comfortable and familiar about matzah ball soup, apples and challah with honey, and roasted chicken – and familiarity was just what we needed.
It was especially nice to be reminded that Judaism persists even in places like Poland, where Judaism and the Jewish people are considered and discussed primarily in a historical context. I felt like I’d been wanting to yell and jump up and down and flail my arms about just to remind people that Jews are STILL around. To say, “Hey! We aren’t just those people who used to live in the flats above the hot new bars in town. Despite SO many people’s best efforts, Auschwitz wasn’t the end. They didn’t win. We aren’t just victims, we are also survivors. Don’t forget the past, but don’t use it as a crutch to ignore the present.” As important is historical memory is (and especially in Poland, it is EXTREMELY important), ignoring the survivors and the persistence of the Jewish people and the faith throughout the centuries, and since the war, is a resignation to Nazi success. Instead of saying, “the Nazis did a terrible thing, let’s make sure to build an adequate museum,” why not say, “the Nazi genocide was one of, if not the, most heinous and brutal episodes of murder and hatred in human history, it marked an unprecedented low for humanity – but even they did not succeed”? We trace our histories in casualties and losses, but isn’t there power in taking note of survivors and perseverance? Seeing Judaism as solely historical was the most difficult part of Poland, for me, and sitting around a Festival dinner, challah dripping with honey and wine glasses brimming, was a much-needed dose of living Judaism.
We visited Auschwitz later that week, and it was an expectedly difficult and emotional experience. Auschwitz 1 is similar in many ways to most Holocaust museums I’ve visited. It is a museum. It tells the story of Auschwitz and the Holocaust, and illustrates the dates and historical facts with artifacts and photographs. Our tour guide led us through barracks that had been converted to exhibition spaces, and it is, I think, incredibly well done and powerful.
There were three particularly heartbreaking moments, for me. Relatively early on in the tour, we entered a room that contained some belongings that had been confiscated from Jewish prisoners upon arriving at Auschwitz. At the far end of the room, behind a wall of glass, were about 10 tallitot, most of them worn and some nearly falling apart, but all of them very personal reminders of the importance of faith, and how brutally it was stolen from people. Wrapping my tallit around my shoulders never fails to cloak me in warmth and contentment, and those tallitot hanging behind glass were very painful reminders of what it must have felt like to have that ripped away.
In another room, sometime later in the tour, an entire half of the floor had been sectioned off behind glass, and it was filled with suitcases. Most of the suitcases had a person’s last name, sometimes their first, and their hometown. Upon walking in, one suitcase caught my eye. Written across the front, in large letters, was “HAMBURG.” My grandfather’s family left Hamburg in 1935 (I think). I don’t know that much more than that needs to be said.
And, finally, walking through the one remaining gas chamber and crematorium was incredibly emotional and difficult. It’s almost beyond my comprehension how many individual people, with their own stories, with moments of joy and pain, who fell in love and had their hearts broken, who played make-believe as children and who teased their siblings, who skinned their knees and had first kisses and made mistakes and learned the Aleph-Bet and lit Shabbat candles and failed tests and read books and imagined futures, all of these people, entered that room and never left. I walked in, and I could walk out again, but thousands of people never had that opportunity.
I stood outside of the gas chamber and crematorium for a long time, with my arms folded across my chest, tears running down my cheek. Tour groups walked out past me, their tours ending, and one woman paused as she walked past. She reached out her hand and touched my arm, comfortingly. My first response, irrationally, was anger. Who was this woman to presume to comfort me? What does she know about me or why I’m standing here crying? Who is she, and where was she 60 years ago? But then, I stopped myself, and realized that if there is anything that should stand out against the depravity of the Holocaust, it is kindness to strangers. This woman didn’t know me. She had no idea who I was or where I came from or why I was crying, but that didn’t matter. That didn’t stop her from offering a measure of condolence – and that’s a lesson from which we could probably all benefit.
Auschwitz II – Birkenau is much less of a museum. Some of the barracks that were not destroyed in the Nazi’s retreat have been set aside for particular displays, but for the most part, it is a space for remembrance. I spent a long time sitting, thinking, and writing, and that was just what I needed.
The rest of my time in Krakow was pleasant, and I think it is a really great city. For all of my reservations about Poland, I left having had a meaningful and enjoyable time.
Our next two weeks were spent in Prague, and I had a good time there, as well. It is a beautiful city, but I feel like I didn’t really get an adequate feel for it. It is full of tourists and American college students, and I’d like to go back with more time to explore the city beyond the tourist spots. I don’t have a whole lot to say about Prague, really. I had a good time, and hopefully some day I’ll make it back, but I don’t think it will be one of my favorite cities of the trip.
We are in Germany now, and I am DEFINITELY enjoying Berlin. The city has so much character and is incredibly vibrant. I am living in Kreuzberg, which is a neighborhood full of alternative folks and immigrants, mostly Turkish. So, there are great clubs and bars, lots of cheap schwarma, and a plethora of crazy hair cuts. Really, who could ask for more? We’ve barely been here a week, and I’m already learning quite a bit about Germany. It’s really reminding me how little I know about my own family’s German heritage and history, and I want to know more.
I’m sure I will have more to write about soon, but I need to finish things up on the internet and get going, so for now, I’ll wrap things up.
I hope everyone is doing well, and I miss you all.